Category Archives: Amazon Rainforest

A Visit to the Sani Isla Community

Sani Isla is a community of about 600 Kichwa  indigenous people nestled along the Napo river deep in the Ecuadorian Amazon. The Sani Lodge is their main source of income but in looking to diversify, the women in the community expressed their desire to revitalize traditional handicrafts. The handicrafts could provide a new income stream from sustainably sourced forest materials and help promote the traditional artisan practices of the Kichwa, strengthening their self identity and celebrating their way of life while protecting their forest home. We visited them for lunch, and to experience some of their culinary and celebration practices. It was great to do a little to support their efforts.

Offloading at the community landing.

We were welcomed by some of the women of the community and fed some traditional food.

One of our welcomers

These palm grubs are an Amazonian delicacy, raw or cooked. Our guide asked for volunteers.

Chip, our leader was one of the brave who after biting the grub’s head off, proclaimed the treat tasty. Most of us were unconvinced.

Fish from the Napo River was cooked wrapped in palm leaves.

Eaten with your hands sitting in a circle

This guy opted for something else

After lunch, our guide gave a brief talk about hunting with a blowgun and asked for a volunteer to fire one. I stepped up and after instructions, completely “blew it” with the dart only going about 50 feet. Provided some post-lunch humor at least.

“Houston, we have a problem here.”

Then we had some face painting such as was done for celebrations and festivals.

Sally chose River Otter as her animal marking.

It was a nice outing. We bought chocolate and hand-made baskets and other items. Fifteen school kids joined us on the ride back to Sani Lodge, saving the school boat a run. Little did we know that the next day’s trip on the Rio Napo back to Coca would be much more hair-raising.

Sani Lodge – Boat Trip

On day three, we trekked over to Rio Napo, by canoe, then walking, to board the big motorized boat to see some parrots. We had to leave very early because there is only an hour window or so when parrots come to the clay licks for feeding. They eat a variety of berries and toxic fruits- the clay counteracts toxicity, acting as an antidote and antacid.

The clay licks are a riot of color and noise as hundreds of birds come and go.

We stopped on an island to view the parrots on the clay cliffs across the river.

We saw Blue-headed Parrots, Yellow-crowned Parrots, Mealy Parrots, Dusky-headed Parakeets, and White-eyed Parakeets. Image courtesy Napo Wildlife Center

Heading upriver, we passed the “school boat” picking up students for the Sani Community School.

We then motored a little further, disembarked to explore a small island in the river where we got a little exercise trudging through sand and saw a number of good birds.

An adult Black Caracara and a juvenile watched us patiently as we photographed them.

This far-off Oriole Blackbird was stunning through the scope.

The group and the guides

Our next stop, which I’ll cover in the next post, was a stop for lunch at the Sani Community Center.

Sani Lodge

After a three hour bus ride to the city of Coca, a gritty city built up in the 1990’s oil boom, we waited around for other passengers who would make the 3.5 hour trip down the Rio Napo to the Sani Lodge. The long covered boat was tiring at the end of a long day, and then we to the fifteen minute walk on boardwalk to a small tributary where indigenous paddlers brought us to the lodge – which is perched on the water and deep in the rainforest.

The Sani Lodge is owned and operated by the Sani Community, a group of 500 indigenous people who live along the river.

Here is an interesting writeup on the lodge.

Our guide was intense but an expert at spotting birds – and after birding, very interesting and funny. 

You travel by boat to get anywhere from Sani Lodge.

Our native guide took one boat and Chip aptly handled bird-finding in the other

The stillness in the Amazon basin is amazing at both ends of the day. No airplanes, traffic noise, just birds, bugs, and other creatures.

We saw a lot of birds from the canoes — as well as a Caiman, monkeys, a sloth, and for a few, a big otter.

A Hoatzin, a pretty noisy large bird that has to be seen to be believed. Pronounced “watson”

A young Rufescent Tiger-heron close to the lodge.

The next post will tell how a pilot, afraid of heights, climbed a 150-foot observation tower – for the birds.